Fashion Trendsletter
What's
New
Fashion
Trendsletter
With Commentary On
Fall 2004Winter 2005
by
Karen Ormsby and Judith Rasband
©2004 Conselle, L.C.
Fashion refers to the popular and prevailing style at any given
time and place. Fashion is a mirror of society—a mirror of
history within a society. Fashion changes as society changes. Change
is inevitable. The degree and speed of change varies from time
to time and place to place and is discussed in terms of "trends."
Fashion For Her
As fashion trends go, we'd like to read that "baggy" and "bare" are
so old! We'd like move on to something new and nice for a change. In doing our
seasonal market research, however, the ongoing fashion mood, according to one
fashion forecaster, is still "sexy, but sleek and sophisticated." Another
forecaster goes on record with "feminine, ladylike looks from the 50s" and
suit-dressing is finally back in favor. Still others maintain "casual comfort
and easy dressing" are prime, with "casual wear loosening up." Can
casual get any "looser" than it already is? We don't think so. In reality,
fashion for fall 2004 will be a mix of all the above—and more. Classic "Preppy" clothes
remain strong. Designer John Galliano is going heavy on "Egyptian" themes,
while designer Jean Paul Gaultier gives us "unstructured, almost primitive" styles
and accessories. Elements of their designs will trickle down with mass market
appeal. Brazil is an up and coming fashion capital, so expect to see its influence
grow. To be expected, there is opposition in all things, including fashion good
looks. There is the "naughty librarian fantasy" that pairs tight twinset
sweaters with a hardware trimmed skirt. The look will land you nowhere you really
want to go. Versace puts out a dubious evening lineup of "punked-out," twisted,
slashed, and contorted gowns that present you in various states of undress. Look
elsewhere. What follows are discussions of the great, the good, the bad and the
ugly for Fall 2004 and beyond. We incite you to read through the major trends
and call it quits, or go on to pick and choose to read what interests you.
Retro Feminine Theme
"Retro" and "vintage" are key words this
season and they encompass decades of fashion styling, with options for personal
style preference. A woman wanting to carry off the dramatic look of Marlene Dietrict
might pick out a new, tailored, three-piece suit in matching pant, vest, and
jacket. Her best friend might prefer a gorgeous gown, reminiscent of the style
Jean Harlow wore. You might have a talent for buying into vintage looks and pairing
them with something new—a dash of the past and a pinch of the present.
Picture modern pin-stripe pants topped with a vintage ivory silk camisole and
caramel-colored leather jacket with cutwork on the collar. Wow! Among vintage
fashion options, you'll find specific fashion pieces from the 20s, 30s, 40s,
50s, through the 60s, 70s, and into the 80s. With clothes from the 90s still
in our closets and updates into 2004—you ought to be able to find something
you really want to wear. Considering the illicit sex and sleaze we've seen flaunted
on fashion pages, at the mall, or at the movies, some of the fall season's looks
are downright prim and proper. You'll find clothes that are cute and sporty,
yet trying to feel feminine. Others are a classy mix of feminine Yin and tailored
Yang design elements creating a look of delicate strength that's young and self-assured.
Picture, if you will, a softly flared satin dress with tailored collar and cuffs,
or a softly bowed silky blouse and slim skirt, topped with a short, shaped tweed
jacket.
His-For-Her Theme
It's this mix of assured femininity and assumed masculinity
that we see as the most exciting fashion and image trend of the season. It finally
puts the focus on the differing degrees of Yin and Yang styling that every individual
has to either recognize intuitively or experiment with to arrive at her own degree
of personal style. You may hear or read about this trend in fashion reports as "she-male" fashion.
Call it "his-for-her," or "boy meets girl," it's the androgynous
look of menswear on women. As always, the media will hype the extremes—but
don't you go to extreme. You'll just look silly with a bow tied around a blazer.
The mix should always be subtle to work harmoniously—a little of the one
to a lot of the other. The look may be almost "all girl" with a hint
of the guy, or nearly "all guy" with a touch of the girl. For some,
the right look may be a flounced skirt below a softer fabric blazer. Maybe it'll
be a Chanel style jacket over a floral, neck-tied blouse, pearls, and a straight
skirt. A man's vest translates beautifully on a woman, layered over a romantically
styled chiffon blouse and cuffed, tapered, or flared pants. You've got options.
A sporty poncho or more dramatic looking cape—worn originally as a cloak
by the men of Spain—will be an available option and serve you well for
years to come.
Baby-doll and Barbie Doll Themes
Going to extreme when it comes to femininity, we've got more
cutesy, baby-doll dressing, Barbie Couture, and Barbie Boutiques. In Europe it's
called, "Dressing like a doll," and the description isn't considered
a compliment. The look is too frilly, too frou-frou, a froth-induced sugar rush
you really can't afford. You end up looking like you haven't got a brain. So
don't go to extreme in your attempts to appear feminine. A chic antidote is the
tailored suit or softly tailored suit paired with a frankly feminine blouse.
Anti-Statement and The Deconstruction Downtrend
"Anti-statement" fashion continues to rely on stained
and faded fabrics, ripped and torn, worn inside-out—anything that goes
against established ways of dressing. The clothes and the outfits are literally
deconstructed—taken apart in some way or another. The trend toward deconstruction
started out with unbuttoned blouses and exposed seams. Now we're seeing necklines,
hemlines, collars, and cuffs without any finish or facing. And some don't bother
with the blouse at all. Sold at regular prices, raw edges are ready to fray apart
at the first wearing or wash—and that's exactly the idea. Deconstructed
clothes are intended to communicate unwillingness to conform to looking "nice" as
we used to see it. If people give in to this lack of quality at regular prices,
why should clothing manufacturers bother to spend what it takes to finish a quality
garment? They won't, and we'll all become fashion victims. Even retailers are
playing into the deconstruction mentality, telling consumers and teaching salespeople
to "Mix it up 'cause anything goes." The fashion industry doesn't seem
to get it, but they're shooting themselves in the foot!
Fashion Savvy Consumer Buying—
We recently read that today's consumer is said to be "fast,
savvy, smart, ravenous, and relentless about getting new things. Like falling
in love, you gotta have it!" Oh please, let us get a life and exercise our
brain in behalf of humanity. Make time to consider what you really think about
buying into the latest trends for sake of looking "cool." Make sure
you distinguish between runway and reality. Before you buy, consider your needs,
your personal style, roles, and goals. If styles from the 50s don't appeal to
you, check out updated 40s and 80s suit options. If punkette or baby-doll looks
really won't work where you work, classic business clothes can still be found—or
custom cut to fit. If you recognize the anti-statement and deconstructed looks
for what they really are, take your business to the stores and catalog companies
still surviving the casualization of America.
We highly recommend you stroll the aisles of
your local department stores—like Dillards, Macy's, Lord & Taylor,
Meier & Frank. Be selective according to size. Zero in on their
sales for the most of the best in basics at reduced prices. Find
your nearest national chain stores—like Chico's, Talbots,
Ann Taylor, Casual Corner, Petite Sophisticate, and August Max,
even Dress Barn—as well as independent local boutiques. Budget,
sizing, and personal style will dictate which will work for you.
Call us if you need direction. Yes, you can find some things at
discount stores like TJ Maxx, Ross Dress For Less, Target, and
once in awhile Walmart—but now be very selective. You're
looking for the best quality on the rack at the price you can afford.
Don't overlook catalog and internet shopping
options. Catalogs offer you armchair selection and fashion education
at no cost. Consider getting our Fashion Catalog Directory,
for sale in our Bookstore.
We particularly like Talbot's, Pendleton, and Coldwater Creek catalogs
for fashion forward classic and sporty clothes; Draper's & Damon
and J. Marco for classic and creative design; Bloomingdales and
Nordstrom catalogs for contemporary classics and trends; Chadwicks
and Dress Barn for economy classics and trends; Saks and Neiman's,
Peruvian Connection, and Gorsuch for pure style if budget is of
no concern. There are others—Barrie Pace, J. Jill, Appleseed,
Lew Magram, Maryland Square and more—each catering to different
personal style types. Concerned about size? Order two or three
sizes and send back what doesn't work. It's worth finding even
one of what you need that wasn't available in local stores. Conselle's Fashion
Catalog Directory lets you in on what catalogs cater to what
size range, price range, personal style range, and occasion. With
options, you can find what you need and have fun with fashion!
Want to know details regarding the trends for 2004/05, fashion
for him, or for teens? Read on—
For Her-Continued
Style Lines and Shapes
- Choose loose or close fitting silhouettes. Loose silhouettes
create a relaxed attitude and easy movement. Silhouettes that
fit close to the body are based on belted waistlines and stretch
fabrics. Allow extra ease with stretch fabrics or you'll get
stretch marks—stress wrinkles pointing to the body bulge
that's fitted too tightly.
- High waistlines are coming back—a great way to visually
lengthen a shorter lower torso or shorter legs.
- Side surplice wrap tops and dresses are still "in" and
available. They work to visually slim a wider waistline.
- Vintage tops and dresses are designed with many pattern pieces
for a fabulous fit and greater visual interest.
- There is renewed interest in layering your clothes. You might
like wearing a long jersey dress over skinny pants. More traditional
are light to medium weight layered vests, shirt-jacs, and jackets
over skirts and pants. They provide a transitional line between
shoulder and hem to easily camouflage a larger bust, midriff
bulge, wider waist, rounded tummy, and prominent high or low
hip curves, side thighs, and behind. If you want more about how
to get a flattering fit, go to our online Bookstore and
consider Fabulous
Fit, Shape In Clothing Selection and Coordination, and
Dress Slim.
Colors
- Black is certainly "out there," but takes a back
seat to brown—even in evening wear.
- Brown outnumbers black as a basic. In today's world, brown
feels safe and secure, earthy, and well-grounded. You'll find
rich-looking chocolate brown, espresso, mocha, and mahogany,
spicy amber and caramel, moving to lighter coppery colors.
- Classy, cool charcoal and gray are livened by warm hues in
pumpkin, camel, ivory, and cream.
- Pale or faded vintage neutrals appear antiqued, tea-stained,
or scorched, aged for authentic vintage appeal.
- Green is cropping up all over—in grass green, lime green,
lettuce, chartreuse and avocado yellow-green, muted sage and
loden green, strong jade, and emerald. Charcoal, combined with
forest green make a unique color scheme in clothes.
- Teal blue-green and turquoise offer more fashion options that
virtually every body can wear beautifully. Try teal with camel,
caramel, red, brown, black, or charcoal. You've got options.
- True blues come in sapphire, midnight blue, and steel blue-gray.
- Fashion pulls from all around the color wheel to include purple—with
tints and shades in lilac, lavender, mauve, plum, and aubergine.
Try lavender or purple with black or charcoal. We've done plum
with black, taupe, and a touch of teal.Making a strong "Hello" statement,
you'll find red and hot pink paired with black or brown. Brown
paired with pink is out of the ordinary. Opt for brown with a
dusty pastel pink if you prefer.
- Medium to light tints of red-orange include coral, shell pink,
and bare blush, as well as blue-red burgundy and berry colors—all
of which look extraordinary worn with black, brown, or charcoal.
Fabrics
- Fabric manufacturers work more than a year-and-a-half in advance
of showings and they've combined high-tech fabric innovation
with low-tech, hands-on creativity. Fabrics offer you allure,
a lot of technomagic, and a whole lotta luxury thrown into the
mix.
- Lighterweight than ever, georgette, sheer chiffon, clingy jersey,
and draped satin enhance the feminine fashion theme.
- Wool tweed or boucle and boiled wool, Cashmere, angora, mohair
can be counted on to keep you warm.
- For fun, we like leather and pony skin pieces, but suggest
you pass on the down-filled "puffer" dress or jacket.
- Luxury comes into play with velvet, a natural for dressy-casual
in pants and shirt, or skirted for dressy-formal occasions.
- More luxury looks are seen in brocade and metallic brocade,
gold or bronze lamé, and gold or silver sequined material.
- In keeping with the "his for her" theme, tailored
tuxedo jackets and double breasted smokings are made up in feminine
fabrics like satin or crepe de chine for the look of tailored
shapes that cling and flow to reveal "la femme."
- With brown as fashion basic this winter season, you can bet
that fur will be featured—either faux or the genuine pelt.
Make it mink, fox, or chinchilla. Make it a winter whiteout with
white fur.
- There's still more denim, including dirty denim, than we've
seen in our combined lifetimes. Dare to be different and try
something new to you. You've got options—use'em or lose'em.
Patterns
- Print, stripe, and plaid patterns are finally getting favorable
attention again. It's been a long, minimalistic time coming.
- You'll find stylized paisleys, geometrics, abstracts, floral
prints, animal prints, and "Garden of Eden" prints
complete with snakes, birds, and butterflies. We'll put our money
on a trendy chevron striped shirt or a classic paisley skirt.
- Invest in "his for her" woven checks, herringbone,
houndstooth, and tweed patterns for basics. Buy into a lumberjack
plaid strictly for play.
- If you're the type, pick from 70s diagonal plaids, dots, spots,
and Pucci prints.
- Antiqued floral prints are reminiscent of old wallpaper or
tablecloths. Make sure it's really your style.
- "Ombré" is new to most, a dye technique where
the color changes gradually across the cloth, usually monochromatically
from light tints to dark shades.
- Avoid anything garish or with three-dimensional motifs that
appear to rise off the surface of the fabric.
- Women comfortable using solid colors only are smart to find
a pattern of colors they love and use it as inspiration for a
whole cluster of workable clothes. The fabric designer has done
the hard part of coming up with a color scheme. Ideally, one
of the colors is a wardrobe neutral and some color repeats your
personal coloring—your hair, eye, lip, and skin colorations.
This allows you to become a beautiful part of the color scheme
with your clothes. You pick out your favorite for core cluster
pieces and rely on the pattern piece(s) for variety and interest.
Design Details & Decoration
- Feminine detail and decoration is everywhere, on everything
you can think of. Subtlety is often left behind, so go easy and
pick only what works for you.
- Fabric manipulation includes lacing, ruffling and ruching,
pin-tucks and patchwork.
- The list of trims is long—using appliqué and embroidery,
banding or piping, feathers or fringe, satin ribbon or sequins,
beads and jewels.
- Buttons can be big—great big, but usually not great-looking.
Opt for something else.
- Costume looks include jeweled buttons on lean tweed coats,
tweed pencil skirts dusted with sequins, sportive gray flannel
trousers with flippy godets of lace set into the hem, glitter
outlining pleats of a knee-length skirt, glitter and shine on
shorts and tee-tops. You name it, it's "out there."
Suits
- Like we said, suit-dressing is as feminine as it is fashionable.
Because of all the feminine detail, we call them "cosmetic
suits" or something for the ladies who lunch.
- If you're strictly sportive, Austin Reed suits may better fit
your needs.
Jackets
- Choose from either single-breasted or double-breasted jackets,
slightly shaped to very fitted with Yin puffed sleeves or Yang
oversized shoulders.
- There are little bolero, box, and cropped jackets suited only
for women without side thighs or much else below the belt.
- Smaller than these are shrugs of cashmere, quilt, or fur, topping
off a 50s full-skirted dress.
Shirts & Blouses
- The trend is totally feminine, soft and sheer or silky, bowed,
with bell or bloused sleeves.
- Most lingerie tanks of sheer fabric, ribbon, and lace belong
in the bedroom.
- Latin looking, off-the-shoulder tops are equally trendy, appropriate
in the evening hours.
- For business or leadership roles, look for classic manstyle
sportshirts and campshirts. The collar lifts attention to your
face for better communication.
- Traditional Oxford shirts may feature flared or pleated cuffed
sleeves for a touch of elegance.
- Turn the collar up, 50s style, for added sophistication.
Dresses
- Choose among drop-waist flapper dresses from the 20s, fitted
sheath dresses from the 50s, or a sleeveless A-line dress with
matching coat from the 60s—a la Jackie Kennedy.
- Also inspired by the 50s are sleeveless dresses with a cinched
waist and full skirt—not near so forgiving as a shift from
the 60s.
- Knee-length shirtwaist and jersey dresses add to the variety
of good looks available in stores and catalogs.
- For evening, slip dresses are still on the rack, along with
sleek satin gowns.
Skirts
- Choose a trendy circle skirt from the 50s, a mini from the
60s, or a maxi from the 70s.
- Simple basic shapes include pencil and A-line skirts.
- Trendy skirts come high-waisted or hip-hugging—something
for everybody.
- It appears skin-tight tube skirts are so constricting that
the wearer's gait is slowed to a near stand-still.
- Slit to upper thigh is too high. Slit only to the knee is the
key.
- Interesting hemlines continue to be featured—something
for every age and social situation. Try on flared or flippy,
asymmetric, softly ruffled, or handkerchief hems. Try, for fun,
a car-wash skirt, then pass it up for something with a longer
wear life.
- Mid-calf length skirts tend to look dowdy or dumpy, unless
they feature an asymmetrical hem treatment.
Pants
- The most trendy pants, too, are high-waisted or slung oh-so-low
on the hips.
- If you haven't noticed, low riders add inches to the width
of your hips.
- Pants are cropped, and straight or wide-legged.
- There are faded jeans, suede jeans, velvet jeans, and jeans
with turned up cuffs in contrasting colors.
- There are knickers in velvet or leather, cuffed pants, pants
rolled up, and skinny pants tucked into boots.
Sweaters & Vests
- Like blouses, trendy sweaters of the season are bowed or tied
at the neck.
- There are pretty pointelle knit sweaters with puffed sleeves,
sporty Fair-Isle sweaters, romantic cardigans with fancy jeweled
buttons, countered by more tailored looking belted flat-knit
or hand-knit sweaters. It's all a matter of personal style.
- Half-sleeve twin-sets trimmed with feathers are only for the
birds.
- Vests are scoring fashion points, be they simple menswear shapes
worn with pants or high-waisted shapes worn over a shirtwaist
dress.
Coats
- There's nothing better for basic than a trenchcoat. It's an
all-season option in classic styling. Choose basic black or tan
to go with all you own—or opt for a fashion color if it
fits your personal style.
- Fashion colors are being pushed this season—in red, orange,
or white wool with matching fur trim.
- Less flamboyant are tweed overcoats, however, we question the
wisdom of 3/4 length sleeves. Some will come with a small mink
collar.
- There are novelty egg-shaped coats and big wrap coats.
- Capes, capelets and ponchos are making headlines this year.
One size fits just about every body, in total comfort. Choose
from among wardrobe neutral colors in black, charcoal, gray,
navy, burgundy, cinnamon, olive, or white.
- Stoles are making a comeback. Not since the 50s has an over-the-shoulder
stole made a fashion statement. Reasonably priced, choose from
the wardrobe neutrals or a fashion color for fall. Try fur if
appropriate for your lifestyle.
Shoes
- Models continue to walk the runways in pointy toe sling-backs
and stiletto high heels that try to look sexy, but end up only
uncomfortable. Look for more comfortable blunt or rounded-toe
shoes in the seasons ahead.
- Beaded Moroccan slipper-shoes, ballerina flats, oxford lace-ups,
slides, and platform wedge styling are among the favored styles
for fall.
- Many shoes for fall are trimmed with beading, studs, and buckles,
in patent and metallic finishes.
- Think twice about cute Mary Jane styles with a strap across
the instep.
whether in fashion or not, Mary Jane's communicate a little-girl
look, appropriate only for elementary and teen girls.
- Chunky heels add tons of visual weight, working well only with
pants.
- Best looking is a low throated black pump with high heels.
Choose heel height according to your purpose and pleasure.
Stockings
- Nude pantyhose with short skirts certainly enhance the look
of the leg. People are finally speaking out about too much "raw" skin,
bruises, veins, and all.
- Leggings are worn for a sporty look, also with short or longer
skirts.
Belts
- Belts are worn at the natural waistline and up to Empire level.
Low riding belts continue to be featured and can look terrific
over a low-slung top. Think outside the box and give them all
a try.
- Bow-tied ribbon doubles as a belt around your jacket, but often
looking silly and out of place.
- A thin lizard belt offers a sporty looking option.
- Beaded and rhinestone belts are an instant updater, paired
carefully with a dress, jacket or simple dressy coat.
Bags
- There is an odd assortment of bags available—costume
and novelty bags.
- Mega-sized tote bags and travel bags are featured. Compare
the bag size with your size and don't overpower yourself.
- Square or rectangular jewel-box bags are awkward and hard to
carry.
- "Bag parties" held in private homes are the latest
way of selling counterfeit designer bags and jewelry. Dealers
sell the fakes at parties, giving the hostess a cut of the price.
Don't get stung.
Hats
- Tweed caps are trendy and cute with sporty outfits.
- Fur hats make a romantically sportive statement and continue
to come on strong for fall into winter.
- Felt hats in a variety of styles may be more available, but
will anyone wear them?
- In keeping with the trend for fur, consider round fur ear muffs—real
or faux.
Scarves
- Scarves are a relatively inexpensive way to wear a fashion
color or trendy print. Wear it in a simple style that suits your
personal style.
Gloves
- You'll find short, wrist-length gloves—a la Jackie Kennedy
60s style.
Jewelry
- A large, vintage brooch or flower pin is the jewelry item of
choice for fall and winter. Supposedly, bigger is better, even
on coats. Even so, we suggest you keep it in scale with your
body size. A brooch on a T-shirt? Not!
- Try a trio of coordinated pins clustered at the shoulder—very
50s.
- Today's trend is for personal treasures selected from semi-precious
stones such as chunky turquoise, coral, agate, and onyx, upgraded
for use along side precious stones for fine and costume jewelry.
- In keeping with theme dressing, you might be exactly the person
to try something in Egyptian or primitive, ethnic jewelry.
Fashion For Him
We're all for a return to more classy traditional
dress codes in business offices. Suits are on the rebound because many "men
are currently more serious about what they wear to work. There's a more conservative
feeling—and men know the days of khakis are over." To which we have
to say, "Yeah, right!:" Nonetheless, all across America, newspapers
and promoters are pushing power suits again—in stripes, paired with striped
dress and sport shirts, including a tie—also striped. Even the Gap got
wise and has a "wear to work" section in their stores. Saks offers
a seminar on career wear and Men's Wearhouse helps customers select what fits
their profession best. Of course, this is what Conselle does best, having the
Personal/Professional Style Scale® to teach with.
Supposedly, it's "fashion, fashion, fashion" men
are seeking. They focus on whatever is in fashion, whatever manufacturers
are promoting. Younger men are into the flavor of the moment when
it comes to clothes, including jeans. Denim is a never-fading fashion—an
American classic. There's a brand out there that will fit every
body and a place in the life of every body where jeans will fit.
Just don't limit yourself to jeans. Men who hasten to adopt the "he-she" or "she-male" costumes
are among the next wave of fashion victims. For example, guys who
wear a gal's Chanel jacket look more "cuckoo than Coco." And
we'll shed no tears when those males who deck themselves out in
tough-guy clothes tottering on stiletto high heels take a tumble.
TV and film are rapidly shaping ideas of who
we are and how we dress—and it's not always pretty. What's
happening in the music industry also drives the fashion industry.
Rappers and hip-hop heavies are wearing suits on MTV and at the
awards shows. Taking a cue from the music world, Justin Timberlake
made fashion news at the Grammy Awards when he abandoned his usual
knit beanie hat and active street garb in favor of wearing an updated
suit, shirt and tie—all in tonal (think monochromatic) eggplant.
Outkast's Andre 3000 polished up his dark denim jeans and lime-green
bolero jacket with a patterned tie. Fans will follow suit. Even
hip-hop stars admit that dressing up is part of growing up. When
you're 30, it's time to look mature and clean-cut, with classy,
contemporary fashion options to choose from.
Many retailers have yet to see suit dressing
come back with a vengeance. Instead, they are seeing more dressy
casual wear and suit separates in solids and patterns. It's wearable
alternatives the 25-50 year olds are looking for, and suit separates
fill that need. Suit separates are being sized S-M-L-XL, and shown
in the way a customer hangs them in the closet—alternating
a jacket with a couple of woven shirts, a knit shirt, and then
pants. It's "cluster" dressing for men.
The practice of mixing different elements of apparel—tailored,
casual, athletic, and formal—to create a look that falls
somewhere between dressed up and casual has transcended the red
carpet and moved to mainstream America. More and more guys are
taking an individualized approach to dressing by layering casual
sportswear with everything from cashmere knitwear, and tailored
outerwear to designer suit jackets, colorful dress shirts and vintage
inspired ties. Retailers, eager to capitalize on a profitable trend
that promotes higher-price point items like tailored clothing and
designer sportswear, are bending the rules of traditional merchandising
by mixing dress and casual classifications—"dressuals."
"This is the way a modern guy dresses." says
Michael Macko, director of fashion merchandising, men's, at Saks
Fifth Avenue. "Jeans, a dress shirt, maybe a tie, and a pair
of cufflinks." Slack manufacturers are blending dressy and
casual influences, city and country, in the effort to capitalize
on the increasingly blurred lines between the formal and the relaxed.
Today's emerging 20-something customer often teams a serious chalkstripe
suit coat with jeans, or a velvet jacket with distressed premium
jeans. Anything goes? Don't you believe it!
Another part of the dressy/casual crossover concept is all about
clothes that do double duty—such as a shirt that doubles
as a jacket, or a soft coat that works as a sport coat worn with
more formal or more casual clothes—whether they work or not. "What
the heck, it's all about play and pretending." It's really
just another part of the casual Friday thing, and now the under
40 customer is running with it and writing his own rules as he
goes—plays. Nonetheless, they're all part of a new classification
of performance clothes that's based on versatility. Women have
always had options. It's about time for men to have more options.
Style Lines & Shapes
- Silhouettes are closer to the body, made more comfortable in
stretch-blend fabrics.
- Double-breasted is always an option, but appear more fashionable
this season.
Colors
- Berry, burgundy, and browns are top fall fashion colors for
men. Rose pinks are in place to coordinate creatively.
- Nature-inspired soft greens, like pistachio, are also getting
more attention in menswear. Yup, that's a little different, but
so were lime and orange—popular colors for summer. A lot
of men are becoming more adventurous with color in their clothes.
Nonetheless, don't go ditsy.
- Of course you'll find traditional grays, gray-blues, moody
blues, baby blues, and charcoal—in muted, subtle harmonies
- Strong black, navy, and white are standby colors.
Fabrics
- Techno-fabrics are what men appreciate. Look for stretch fibers
mixed with natural fibers for easy care. Check out the synthetic
shearling and non-bulky quilted jacket fabrics.
- Jos. Banks and Brooks Brothers are offering more and more wrinkle
resistant and stain resistant fabrics in dress shirts and polo
shirts. Ask for them.
- Corduroy pants just get better and better, available in wale
widths from narrow to jumbo. Favorites are high end wool cords—fantastic.
- Velvet for men? Yes, velvet in pants and shirts. Try it on.
- Other options include the usual twills, dobbies, and nailhead
weaves. You have options.
- Fur is becoming a "guy thing" on jackets and coats
for winter.
Patterns
- Pass right on by any offers for mismatched color and stripe
combinations.
- Choose from a wide selection of pinstripes, chalkstripes, Glenplaids,
and Donegal plaids, tweeds, and herringbone patterns. Again,
you've got options.
Details and Trims
- Top-stitching and pick-stitching is featured on jackets and
suits.
- Pockets inside and out—especially on the chest, falling
in line with trendy military looks.
- Just like the ladies, you'll fine collage cut-and-sew techniques.
Jackets
- No, a suit jacket does not go with your jeans! It makes a negative "anti-statement
you can seldom afford if you're serious about your life. Don't
make the mistake of becoming an obvious "fashion victim."
- Jackets are cut short to the waist, with others hemmed just
below sportcoat lengths.
- You can't go wrong in a classic navy blazer paired with a striped
shirt.
- New are the large numbers of shirt-jac/slacks coordinates.
Check out Paul Fredrick and Bachrach catalogs and stores. They
look terrific, available in black, charcoal, brown, and tan.
Shirt-jacs are also available in tweed and herringbone patterns.
Vests
- They tell us vests are on the way back into menswear in a big
way. Start looking for one you like. Wear it under a sport coat
or casual suit, with casual jeans or slacks.
Shirts
- Sportshirts have become the staple of men's casual business
clothes. Layer two shirts if that's a look you'd like to try.
- Striped shirts are a terrific addition to any man's wardrobe.
- A high collar and French cuffs make a white dress shirt special.
That means cuff links as a detail of personal style.
Pants
- Guys, low-riders, such as Levi's "Offenders," only
serve to make you look silly. And pants with the crotch at knee
level look more like wet, weighty, diapers.
- Check out the microfiber pants for a variety of new looks and
easy care.
Fashion For Teens
We'd like to think it's "So long Hip-Hop," with jeans,
T's, sneakers and flip-slops, and baseball caps being traded in for blazers and
suits as the hip-hop generation grows up. But there is always another generation
of teens coming up the ranks and we don't see much change coming. For them, silhouettes
are close to the body thanks to poor sizing and stretch fabrics. Ease of any
sort makes them cringe. They haven't got a clue where their waist is. Adults
who wear pants to the waist are "old fashioned." To be seen as "attractive
enough to get dates," they bare their chest, their belly, and behind.
Yes, some young women across the country are asking retailers
for modest prom dresses, but there's still trash-dressing for everyday occasions
. Retail sales are still highest in low-rider jeans and belly-shirts.
Preppy sweaters, shorts, and shoes continue
to be popular. Hot colors are pink with black. Striped leggings
add a trendy touch of pattern. Pearls can take teen girls from
demure to dramatic.
Educating
to a higher standard
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